Ernest Oganesyan biography singer

How and when to plant grapes when, where and how to plant? The main sign is correct for planting the moment: at the apricot and cherry plums, they also burst to show flower buds. In any case, it is important to determine the plants in place before their buds begin to advance. Otherwise, the shoots will “squeeze” all the forces from the seedling faster than the roots begin to work.

In the fall, you can plant grapes until the first serious frosts. In the south, these are usually November holidays. Planting in the winter when planting in the winter, pits are falling asleep immediately, and the seedling “with your head” is covered with a soil mound - it will protect it from frost. On top - put a piece of film, roofing material or slate: a young plant should not get wet!

In the spring, the mound is loosened so that the upper eye is slightly sprinkled with earth. This will protect the kidneys from study, which is especially important in the south. Early varieties can be filled more thoroughly. While shoots break out, frosts can leave. They rake a mound in the summer, when the shoots have already grown up and it is time to give the stem the desired slope.

Before planting, sleeping seedlings are better to soak in water for a day. The lower eyes do not need to be removed: they will remain sleeping and will come in handy later, giving a shoot to replace damaged or old sleeves. Far Eastern viticulture never leave a stump from a former cuttings on the seedling. In the edge, where rains can pour all summer, this leads to rotting of wood below the hemp.

Therefore, the upper cut is flushed with a seedling of a seedling and carefully covered with a var. This wound must be overgrown, otherwise the bushes will be weakened. In the spring, planting seedlings in the spring can be planted from the moment of stopping frosts. In the south - until the end of June, in the north - until mid -July. They plant them with a lump, the roots during transplantation are almost not damaged.

But a delicate escape suffers very much. The main thing is not to plant them immediately in the sun - they will burn! The first weeks must be shaded from the south. For example, plywood shields. Seedlings that were growing in buckets can be planted in pre -prepared pits all summer, until the first cold weather. Vegeting seedlings are planted in the spring from the moment the frost is stopped.

They must be shaded from the south in the first weeks where to plant grapes? On dry heavy soils in a hot climate - in smart pits, on raw soils and in cold climate - in the hills. Young seedlings should not be planted in a vineyard between adult bushes. In most cases, the "old people" do not allow youths to develop normally, crushing with leaf mass and roots, and inhibit soil soothes.

In order to successfully replace the old bushes with new ones, you have to uproot a whole row or strip at once, dig in solid pits and make a lot of organics. Otherwise, not to get strong growth, but why is it necessary? The theory and practice of successful landing without any exaggeration can be said: from the first years, or rather - from the first months of development of the bush, it depends on how quickly it will begin to bear fruit, how strong and durable.

On a heavy southern loam or salt marshes, the bushes planted in small holes survive with all their might and rather die than grow. On the contrary, good vegetative seedlings in rich soil, in fertilized pits with drainage, with good watering in the first year, give two or three three-meter vines, and in the fourth year the bushes already have a full load. A smart, high -quality pit provides the roots of the bush with everything necessary for powerful growth - organic, moisture, warmth, air for years.

Checked: spending strength and few materials on the installation of smart pits is many times cheaper than losing bushes and waiting for the harvest for years. The optimal depth of landing in the south should provide protection against drought and dangerous frosts, as well as temporary disposal of phylloxers. For root bushes, this depth is on average 30 cm.

There are enough see on the southern loam and chernozems. North north of Volgograd, as well as on sandy soils, which freeze and dry to greater depths, to plant seedlings, vaccinated on a strong frost -resistant subpoenus for example, Kobert 5BB, place at the same depths. The vaccinated bushes are smaller may not be lost in force, but they react more painfully to the weather and are less stable.

There are observations that the bushes, planted smaller than 40 cm, react to the rains with cracking of the berries and reduce sugar accumulation due to soil moisture jumps V. But this is applicable only to light and warm soils. Therefore, grapes are planted to the depths of see frost -resistant varieties of R. Sharov and hybrids of Amur grapes can be planted even smaller, without fear of freezing of the roots.

In the flooded areas, the bushes use only the upper soil cm, and you need to plant grapes in the hills, or not deeper cm, pouring a hill from the soil from above. On the Don, such plots have long been covered with straw or reed mats so that the soil was breathing V. Naumtsev, Novocherkassk. Primorye, especially the coast - a zone of heavy clay soils and a large excess of moisture.

The fertile layer most often is no more than 30 cm. On the hill hills - a stone, in lowlands - the most severe loam or gley.Therefore, deep holes are useless to dig - long rains besiege them and turn them into “lakes”. The roots in such conditions simply begin to suffocate and rot from below. Grapes here are planted in the hills or ridges, deepening into the soil only to cm, or even less; The roots are covered with a layer of earth with a thickness of the thickness, see the drainage of gravel in the lowlands.

Among other things, they take care that the water flows faster from the site along the grooves of N. Tatarinova, p. Terna; O. Galver, Partizansk. In covering areas, especially north of Volgograd and Donetsk, in dry and elevated places the upper eye of the seedling is better placed on cm below the soil level. Then the sleeves will exit directly from the ground, without a stem.

The bases of the sleeves in the first summer give an inclined position. Such a bush is more convenient to cover. A stationary groove is made along the row, where the bushes are laid for the winter. South of Rostov, covering ditches are not needed; A small recess is made around the bush so that a pre -bent stamp is freely, without a break, it goes to the ground for the ground.

If this is not done, the shelter of the bushes for the winter is very complicated. The direction of growth in the growth of seedlings in the first summer should always be directed vertically upward: this enhances the growth of shoots. To do this, a temporary pole is stuck into the pit, or the escape is sent along the twine. In summer, you can bent the base of the shoot for the convenience of subsequent shelter, but the top should always grow up the support.

The fallen and tilted shoots do not grow, but branching, releasing up strong stepsons. The roots that have not received such an inclination are inhibited or die, and the seedling waits until the necessary roots grow again. A weak seedling can take this all summer. Therefore, to distribute the roots and give them a slope on the slopes of the soil mound is not superfluous fuss!

Too long roots are better to shorten. Mulching planting pits freshly caught pit in hot weather loses its supply of water in two weeks.

Therefore, young plantings are recommended often to water. But it is much better if the pit does not dry out so quickly! To do this, immediately after planting, the pit and soil around it is mulched by organic - straw, foliage, husk, grass. The blanket with a thickness of 10 cm will allow watering seedlings for three times less often. Should I cook the soil under the vineyard? Reading that the serious vineyard must be shoveled, mixed with organic and sand, and then again lay the entire soil of the vineyard to a depth of a meter, the usual summer resident is shocked.

Then he comes to his senses: yes, no one dug up-and everyone is somehow growing! Why tackle? It all depends on your goals. If you lay a vineyard for commercial fruiting, then do not conduct thorough preparation of the soil to a depth of cm - a big mistake. Your investments will pay off many times. Only on a high agrophone table varieties, and especially high -total novelties, give strong bushes and large, high -quality clusters.

It is these that we see in the catalogs. It is especially important to carry out the preparation of the soil on difficult, dense southern chernozems and heavy loam. Assessed 0 people.